What is Bias Tape?

Bias tape (or sometimes called “Bias Trim”) are strips of fabric that have been cut on the bias grain of the fabric.

When should I use Bias Tape?

Bias tape will bend with curves.  It is used for edge finishes, in armholes,  necklines, and also for hem treatments. It makes a lovely decorative finish on any straight or curved edge for garments or Home Dec.

How do I get Bias Tape?

You can either purchase packages of bias tape, or you can make it yourself. Packaged bias tape is often in 3 yard lengths and is in solid colors. There are varius widths and folds available. Instructions in the envelope back will tell you have to apply each tape.

You can also make your own bias tape. Not only does custom made bias tape gives you more design control, you save money by using your coordinating fabric stash!

Making Bias Strips

You can make bias tape by cutting strips at a 45 degree angle from the straight of grain. Here is a tutorial of how to do that:

We want to find the accurate cross-grain. Make a small cut at the selvage and rip the fabric. Wovens only rip in a straight line (with the threads). The rip will go from selvage to selvage. Press ripped edge.

Make a mark 10 inches at the selvage.

Make another mark at 10 inches the cross grain.

Allign straight edge so that you connect your marks. Mark line

Normally you would use a water soluable pen or tailor’s chalk to make your lines. For demonstrative purposes I used a sharpie. Make sure you use either a water soluable pen, tailor’s chalk or soap when you make your own lines!

Use clear ruler for accurate marking of 2 inch strips.

Make several lines.

Cut out strips using scissors or rotary cutter.

Attaching Strips

Lay one strip on top of another strip. In this example I align the side of the strips with each line of the cutting mat. Make sure right sides are together.

Make a diagonal line.

Pin down.

Stitch on line.

Trim

Open joined strips, finger press and trim. At this stage you want to press the joined strips with an iron so that the seam allowance lays flat.

Using a Bias Maker

My very favorite bias maker is the Clovis Bias Maker. You can find less expensive bias makers, but I gaurentee you will not like the results (I have tried them!). So far, I have found that this Clovis bias maker gives the best results.

Here is how to do it:

It is easiest to have your bias strip cut at an angle and use a pin to pull the strip through.

When you pull the strip through you will see the maker fold the strip into a single fold bias tape.

Press the strip as you pull the handle on the maker. This will make perfect sense as you do it.

Fold in half again, and now you have a double fold bias tape. Press again (a little steam is helpful)… congratulation, you made your own bias tape!

Attaching double folded Bias Tape

(if you like the fabric photographed click here to order)

You can use the double folded bias tape for a hem treatment. Sandwich the raw edge between the bias tape. Carefully pin the bias.

Stitch the bias tape down. You can use a straight stitch, zig zag or any decorative stitch. Make sure you practice on a scrap (with bias tape) to make sure you like your stitches before you stitch on your final project. Also, remember to remove pins before you sew over the tape (to make sure your sewing needle doesn’t break).

Here is an example of the finished bias tape stitch down. For the best look, iron with steam. Congratulations, you made your own bias tape!