Arm pattern piece

Here is an image of a knit shirt which is folded on grain. Some patterns can be cut out this way, where the pattern is the same for the front and the back of the top of the arm. If you find that one side is deeper than the other, the deeper curve is the back. Make a mark on the pattern where the back (more curved side) is.

I can’t tell you how many tops I have made where the arms are backwards! You quickly learn to make a note of the back of the arm.

Marking Arm Hem

Using your clear quilting rular, make a mark on your fold line of your arm hem. I am using tailor chalk.

Arm chalk

Arm hem treatment

Fold over fabric at mark. Use any stretch stitch for hem (be sure you did you stretch stitch samples first!)  

Joining arm

Now we are ready to join the top of the arm to the bodice of the shirt. Start with the ends first, them top and use the “divide and conquer method” of pinning. “Divide and Conquer means to pin ends and middle first, then pin between those points. That way we are sure that the garment lays nicely with no puckering.

Once you are pleased with your pinning, stitch using a stretch stitch (I used a serger).

Side Seam

Once you have stitched your arm, then lay out flat and pin front and back of bodice, matching underarm seam and wrist points. Pin wrists, bodice hem and underarm seam first, then pin between those points.

Once you are happy with your pinning, stitch the bodice and the under arm in one time with a stretch stitch. Make sure to be careful under the arm. Do it on both sides.

Step 1 | Step 2 | Step 3 | Step 4 | Step 5 | Step 6